Friday, March 13, 2009

Huffy/Raleigh Paint Finished

Well, I got my wish, and the humidity came down a bit today so I could do the clear coat. It's dry to the touch now, so I gathered up all (or most, anyway) of the parts and arranged them for the first of a series of reassembly photos that I'll put together into a slide show at the end of the process. I've included a couple of other shots to show the dramatic results of the painting. Hopefully, I'll get started on the reassembly tomorrow, although I've still got some last parts on order, so I won't be fully finished for a little while.

Here are the fenders, before photo here.


And the head badge/head tube, before photo here.

11 comments:

  1. Good job! I love that headbadge, very "quality" looking.

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  2. Thom, how did you managed to do the graphic parts of the painting? I mean the old logos and lettering on the frame.

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  3. That's still original--I only ended up painting the top tube and the chain stays, the rest is the original paint, just clear coated. It really brought out the shine of the old paint and made the decals much sharper. I'll get a close up of them soon--you'll see that they're not perfect, but still in good condition.

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  4. Beautiful! and as always your blog is an inspiration and helpful both!
    best, Mark
    ps and regarding the above looks like i will eventually want to repaint one of the 2 phillips colors--i will be watching to see how fotos of your decals show after clearcoat

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  5. So did you use paint stripper or sanpaper only? did you refer to the meticulous 22 step (after the don't do it preamble) sanding and paintin instructions over on old roads or other? Different topic, after going back in your posts--is there a "for dummies" dismantling/repacking the front hub guide out there? lastly, what do you use to remove 18t cog from hub?
    thanks Mark

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  6. @ MarcosLagoSalado: Here's my process for painting:

    1) sand as much of the old paint off as possible with fine grit sandpaper (I think I used 220, but you can go a bit coarser even).

    2) clean the sanded area to remove sanding residue, dirt, etc. Your regular bike cleaner will work.

    3) prime with a gray base coat primer. I did six coats for this one, applied a few minutes apart.

    4) once fully dry, sand the primer lightly with fine grit sandpaper or fine steel wool. This smoothes out any drips or imperfections in the primer coat and scratches the surface of the primer to create a good surface for the paint to adhere to.

    5) apply the color coats, light coats, a few minutes apart. I usually do three coats to get full coverage, let that dry, then do another three.

    6) once fully dry, you can either lightly wet-sand, or I've found that using the fine steel wool dry works, too. Again, you're creating a "rough" surface for the clear coat to stick to. The gloss of the paint will disappear, but don't worry, the clear coat will bring it back.

    7) apply the clear coat--again, I do six light coats, but with the clear coat, I do all six a few minutes apart. The clear dries faster, so you don't have to worry so much about drips, but if you apply too heavily, you can get a bit of "clouding" or cracking of the finish, so be mindful of applying evenly.

    8) When fully dry, I follow up the clear coat with several applications of Turtle Wax to create a final weather-proof seal.

    I make no claims to this being the "correct" way to do it, but it has worked for me with great results. The final finish IS more delicate than a professional job, but it's better than rust and it's much cheaper than taking it to a pro.

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  7. Second answer: the front hub should be pretty easy. All you've got there is the axle, the bearings on each side, the bearing cones on each side, and the nuts and washers. Take the nuts and washers off, and you're left with the bearing cone (with two flat sides). You can use a specialized cone wrench if you have one, but just a small adjustable wrench should work, too, since the cones should not be very tight. Hold the opposite side of the axle tightly with your fingers to keep the axle from turning when you unscrew the cone.

    Best to do this with the wheel laying in your lap, rather than standing up, as the bearings will spill out as you back the cone off. Unscrew the cone all the way off the axle, and slide the axle out of the hub *carefully*, being aware that dried-out bearings will likely spill out as you draw the axle out. Do this somewhere where the bearings can't roll too far if they go astray.

    That's it as far as dismantling, and reassembly (after cleaning) is basically just the same processes reversed, only with generous amounts of fresh grease applied in the bearing races and on the cones. Don't tighten the cones down too hard, the wheel should spin freely, smoothly, and quietly. If you get a gritty feeling, or a lot of noise, back the cones off a touch. If there's play in the axle from side to side, then tighten the cones a smidge. With adjustment of the cones, the goal is a tight, quiet wheel that will spin for (seemingly) forever.

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  8. Finally, if you're talking about a sprocket on a Sturmey-Archer hub, check this link, and see if you can make heads or tails out of it:

    http://www.hadland.me.uk/aw.pdf

    I've not ventured into this territory before, so that's about the best I can do for you on this one.

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